The Col de l’Iseran – my highlight of the summer 2022. Because you can’t get any higher over a pass in the Alps, at least not on tarmac. But it’s not just the sheer height that is impressive. The Iseran is also far ahead in terms of scenery. Another first-class motorcycle story by Moppetprosa – photos by Uli (moppetfoto.de), text by me, special guest: Julia from maedchenmotorrad.de.
This story about the Col de l’Iseran appeared in the „Passportrait“ series in MOTORRAD, Europe’s largest motorcycle magazine, issue 20.2022 (September). The Passportrait is a collaboration between Uli from www.moppetfoto.de and myself.
Before you read, please note: this post was translated with the help of Deepl.
If you find any errors – please have fun first and then give me a hint.
Built in 1936, the Col de l’Iseran in the French department of Savoie connects Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis in the south with Bourg-Saint-Maurice in the north. The starting points for the two pass ramps are Bonneval-sur-Arc and the Val d’Isère ski resort. The original path over the pass was already mentioned in the 17th century – farmers and shepherds used it to get to the markets in the Maurienne (south) and the Tarentaise (north).
Bonneval-sur-Arc, one of the most beautiful villages in France, is located in the far east of the Savoie department on the banks of the eponymous river Arc. The ride from Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis to the village leads through a flat trough valley with impressive mountain flanks on both sides. The village consists mainly of natural stone houses covered with thick stone slabs. Roof trusses, balconies and entrance doors are made of reddish wood and richly decorated with flowers.
On the way towards Col de l’Iseran
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
The road to the Col de l’Iseran, the highest motorable pass in the Alps, begins here in a long left-hand bend. It has been part of the famous Route des Grandes Alpes since 1912 and connects the high valleys of the Arc with those of the Isère. The D902 road over the pass is only passable from June to October and is heavily used for winter sports on the north side – in winter, parts of it are used as pistes in the gigantic Espace Killy ski area.
In the south, the route lies in a barren landscape. At the back of Bonneval-sur-Arc, which itself lies at 1835 metres above sea level, the road swings gently upwards along the slopes and blends gently into the high mountains. The few retaining walls built from the abundant quarry stone almost merge with the mountain and the vegetation extends right up to the carriageway. As a result, the road is not always clearly recognisable from the valley.
Road markings? No sign at the Col de l’Iseran
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
As with so many Alpine passes, military interests led to the development of an old mule track – the transport of heavy material for a possible defence operation in the border region with Italy required more than just an unpaved trail. Remains of buildings as evidence of the former military use can still be found.
For this reason, the Col de l’Iseran does not impress with dramatic gradients – they rarely exceed the eight per cent mark – but with its sheer height. Surrounded by painful erosion scars, the road takes an unspectacular course with numerous flat sections.
Scenically far ahead
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
Nevertheless, the lack of road boundaries makes the ride challenging. Although yellowed patches of colour mark the middle of the road and provide some orientation, the view is constantly distracted by the all-encompassing surrounding nature – be it by mighty rockfalls that want to close off the valley carved by the Arc, be it by the glistening glaciers on the surrounding 3000 m peaks or by the farm tracks that get lost in the terrain.
In addition, there is bumpy tarmac that has been repaired hundreds of times, with ruts that tug at the chassis and exposed sections of the route. There, of all places, only ankle-high walls prevent a clear view – and fall – into the abyss. The Col de l’Iseran commands respect in a very subtle way, but also allows for a more relaxed experience on one of the many small alternative spots and viewpoints.
After a few kilometres, the road turns into another high valley, which is characterised by reddish-brown rock structures that would be more likely to be found in a North African desert. In the midst of still lush green alpine meadows, the typical stone houses are pressed into the mountainside – probably to protect themselves from avalanches. Meltwater is constantly working its way down the rugged gorges, springs thunder down into the valley from every pore in the rock.
A canyon in the high mountains, not far from the Col de l’Iseran
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
This rawness is fascinating – all the more surprising is the 50 metre long tunnel, which was not simply driven through the rock and left as it is, but rather elaborately clad with stone. Immediately afterwards, the Pont de la Neige – which translates as „snow bridge“ – is obviously the coldest point on the route: even in midsummer, patches of snow remain on the banks of the Lenta torrent, which has created an impressive canyon in its upper reaches.
Not enough to marvel at: after this already long ride, the transition to the Val d’Isére is expected rather than the abandoned lifts for summer skiing. But chairlifts and T-bar lifts ride right up to the sharpest ridges, while futuristic fun infrastructures that don’t fit in at all with this area create a confusing contrast to the wilderness we have just experienced. All the more so because in summer 2022 there will no longer be enough snow even at this altitude and the lifts will not be able to operate for the first time in their history.
The top of the pass, a barren plateau, is now quickly reached – street art by Tour de France fans announces it colourfully and garishly, although the tour has not ridden through here for some time. The col presents itself simply – it rests in itself, showing neither noisy souvenir shops nor steaming snack stands or photography fortune-tellers. A few rough stones mark out the road and car parks, making the impressive pass sign all the more striking.
An abandoned hospice stands not far from the honourable stone chapel of Notre-Dame de Toute Prudence from 1939, whose imposing wooden statue on the southern side of the tower looks towards the 3600 m high Alberon and its glacier. Behind it, the Pointe des Lessières, which is over 3000 metres high and relatively easy to climb, towers into the sky. It would allow a crazy view of the pass road that has just been travelled – if you want to do the climb in motorcycle clothing in the thin air.
Typical for French cols: Tour de France graffiti
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
Of course, you can go even higher elsewhere in the Alps, but here numerous alpine highlights feel close enough to touch – numerous trails leading away from the col into the high alpine tranquillity invite you to enjoy this high alpine spectacle to the full.
The onward journey into the Val d’Isére becomes a driving and scenic contrast. Like foreign bodies, countless lifts cover the mountain, which had previously been left to its own devices. The road descends into the valley in a more entertaining and hectic manner compared to the steeper southern ramp, with several hairpin bends, which are elevated and overhanging, and can be mastered with vigour.
The view from the Belvedére de la Tarantaise of the Lac du Chevril reservoir, in which the old village of Tignes sank decades ago, and the ski town of Val-d’Isère is almost surreal. The way its concrete castles, however elegantly clad in natural stone and wood, cover the valley floor, the way it greedily stretches its thick steel cables towards the surrounding mountain slopes criss-crossed by brown pistes, all this shows the sins of unbridled winter tourism. On closer inspection, the tasteful chalets of the Le Fornet district on the northern ramp do little to reconcile the situation.
Spectacular view of Val-d’Isère
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
Be that as it may, the bearded vultures taking advantage of the morning updraft and the excited whistling of the marmots are a clear sign of the power of nature, which even the blackest ski piste cut through the forest cannot counteract.
The Col de l’Iseran is the low-key highlight of the Route des Grandes Alpes. Due to its altitude and unpredictable weather conditions, it can only be travelled in its entirety for a short time, but this makes it unique and an unforgettable experience.
Passportrait Col de l’Iseran: Thank-Yous, High-Fives & Links
- Rukka Motorsport
On the ride to and over the Col de l’Iseran, my Rukka textile suit and gloves served me well - SW-Motech
Our motorcycles were travelling with the spacious Pro Travelbag rear bag and the super-practical Pro Enduro tank bags from SW-Motech - Nolangroup Deutschland
The ingenious X-lite X-1005 Ultra Carbon has proven itself once again: Top helmet on the ride and for photography - Country Road Alpnach – Zero Zentralschweiz
Many thanks, Isa, for the technical support and care of the two bikes!
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