Visiting the Manghen in the summer of 2023 was a first for me in more ways than one: it was the first time I’d ridden a BMW GS off-road, the first time I’d ridden a GS at all, and yes – it was also the first time I’d consciously ridden this pass. Uli from moppetfoto.de also experienced a first: he had to take photos with my camera.
This story about the Passo Manghen appeared in the “Passportrait” series in MOTORRAD, Europe’s largest motorbike magazine, issue 4.2024 (February). The Passportrait is a collaboration between Uli from www.moppetfoto.de and myself.
Before you read, please note: this post was translated with the help of Deepl.
If you find any errors – please have fun first and then give me a hint.
In the north-east of the Italian province of Trentino lies a jewel among the Alpine passes: the Passo Manghen, the only connection between the Val di Fiemme and the Valsugana. The start in Molina di Fiemme is not very spectacular at first. After crossing the Avisio, the SP 31 climbs briefly, passes picnic areas and a high ropes course and then follows the red-coloured riverbed of the Rio di Cadino.
Clear and two-lane at the beginning: The Manghen Pass
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
Narrow passages alternate with clear, well-developed sections. It would be easy to ride at a brisk pace, but it can get narrow quite quickly. Locals tend to regard the speed limit of 60 km/h as a recommendation anyway. Buses, lorries and motorhomes are not allowed on the road and traffic is relatively light on weekdays.
The tarmac is of very good quality throughout and surprises neither with bumps nor potholes. Lush green vegetation hangs over the carriageway, sometimes obscuring visibility, and coarse gravel lies in the deep ditches at the edge of the road. In places, sand that has been washed onto the road by the rain reduces grip. After around eight kilometres with only a slight incline, the road crosses the Rio delle Stue in a long right-hand bend. From here, the SP 31 is a single carriageway squeezed between rocks and the Cadino gorge, before it leaves the forest and reaches a wide alpine landscape in steep hairpin bends.
Adventure Bike means: Off into (easy) terrain
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
The effects of storm Vaia can be painfully recognised there. In autumn 2018, it snapped thousands of trees like matchsticks, permanently changing the appearance of this section of the valley. Grey tree corpses and rootstocks torn from the ground are still scattered across the now bare slopes. In addition, there are countless tall pine trees that survived the raging storm but are now falling victim to the bark beetle. They are drying out and slowly dying in the already sparse forest. A depressing sight. However, the power of nature is not only evident in the devastation. In the midst of the deadwood, young forest is already growing again and covering the mountain slopes with new greenery. That gives confidence.
Adventure Bike means: Easy rolling through the tightest bends
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
The road winds its way upwards, alternating between flat and steep sections, easily visible bend combinations and challenging hairpin bends. Due to the open grazing areas, encounters with four-legged friends and their manure activity can never be ruled out – which is another reason why the speed limit is more a necessity than a chicane.
Shortly before the pass, from an altitude of around 2000 metres, the SP 31 winds its way through a magical, sensational landscape. Only a few mighty trees still stand in the dense fields of alpine roses, the rest of the vegetation remains low-growing, framed and crowned by porphyry-red rock needles and boulders. In autumn, it becomes a magical blaze of colour. Accordingly, people love hiking around the Manghen. Numerous paths lead to small mountain huts and offer impressive views as far as the South Tyrolean Adige Valley and the Mendel. Car parking spaces are rare, however, and the few alternative spots are often blocked by cars.
A paradise of bends just below the tree line: The Passo Manghen
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
The Baita Manghen, located a few metres below the pass, offers an opportunity to pause, to see and be seen. And of course you can enjoy typical local cuisine here – a short hike around the clear Lago Cadinello and observing the salamanders that live there will help you digest your meal.
After riding through the last two hairpin bends, you reach the top of the pass. An elevated helicopter landing pad offers impressive views of the mountains. In the direction of Telve, the road drops spectacularly, with a gradient of up to 16% and a very varied course, which can be seen from above for long stretches. A wonderful motorcycle route for experts leans against the red-brown coloured mountainside, which is almost completely exposed to the sun – it requires you to ride with foresight and occasionally stop for oncoming traffic.
Typical for such rustic passes: Open grazing
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
Overtaking here is not a good idea, not least because of the numerous cyclists attempting the long, crisp ascent of the Manghen south ramp. In fact, the width of the carriageway is more reminiscent of a cycle path over long stretches. Wooden crash barriers or fences do not protect you from looking down everywhere – which can make for exciting moments.
The southern ramp also requires a basic command of the motorcycle. Ten tight hairpin bends need to be conquered before reaching the Calamento valley with its wide pastures, mountain pastures and – here too – open grazing. After crossing the Maso river, the road finally loses its wildness and once again offers a very good tarmac road with an average gradient of just 4% on the way to Castelnuovo.
BMW GS means: Handling, power, fun
Photo: www.moppetfoto.de
With every kilometre southwards, the narrow and steep Passo Manghen turns into a Mediterranean, relaxing route. At first the road is lined with alpine meadows, then fruit trees and vineyards, and finally you ride past palm trees and enjoy a magnificent view of the vast Valsugana.
Passportrait Manghen: Thank-Yous, High-Fives & Links
- SW-Motech
On this tour, I was accompanied by the spacious Pro Rearbag from SW-Motech and the first-class Pro Enduro tank bag. The BMW R1250GS came from the SW-Motech fleet. Many thanks for that! - Zero Motorcycles DACH
For the first time I was able to go on tour with the DSR/X from Zero Motorcycles. I would like to express my heartfelt thanks for the fully equipped bike provided! - B&B La Tana dell’Orso, Molina di Fiemme
The perfect accommodation for the production of this portrait: Super friendly hosts, first-class catering and unforgettable entertainment. Grazie mille, Valentina e Andrea!
Perfectly matching:
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Stelvio – Count from 1 to 10!
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