The Stelvio Pass – rediscovered after 30 years

I was sure I knew all the secrets of the Stelvio Pass – after all, I’ve been riding my motorcycle on its ramps for years. Recently, however, I learned that this is far from the truth: accompanied by experts and curious travelers, I rediscovered my home route.

Stelvio – 200 years

Before you read, please note: this post was translated with the help of Deepl.
If you find any errors – please have fun first and then give me a hint.

For a long time, the Stelvio Pass was not even a mystery to me. I knew the name, of course, but why would I want to know more? I had been to Gomagoi, Stilfs, and Trafoi, but since I am neither a hiker nor a skier, let alone a mountaineer, there was never any reason to venture further up into the mountains.

That changed when I got my motorcycle license at the age of 20 and my driving instructor recommended that I spend my first few kilometers on quiet roads. I chose the side valleys of the Vinschgau Valley for this, and the Sulden Valley became my favorite. Its simple layout made it easy for me, there was hardly any traffic, I was rarely an obstacle, and I was never stressed. With every ride, the dance along the Sulden stream became more lively.

I had no idea what lay beyond Trafoi: winter closure. It was not until summer that I was able to learn the rules of the pass. I have no memory of the first crossing, but I do remember my motorcycle’s fuel consumption: I ran out of gas more than once.

MotorProsa Blog-Post: The Stelvio Pass – rediscovered after 30 years. — We never got in each other’s way in 30 years.

That was over 30 years ago. I experienced the eastern ramp with all kinds of motorcycles, rode the road at the limit and at walking pace, and struggled up it on my bicycle. I can’t deny that there were some dicey situations, but I never fell. The Stelvio was always good to me, and I was sure I knew all its secrets.

But far
from it

Sitting next to me in the car is THE Stelvio Pass expert: Arthur Gfrei. His grandparents ran the Hotel Dreisprachenspitze, and he spent his childhood on the rocks of the Stelvio. Later, he took over the Hotel Stilfser Joch and was managing director of the glacier cable car. My friend Alex Milz and I were able to get him on board for our movie project – and Arthur starts telling his story as soon as we reach the Spondining roundabout:

From the artificial dam between Spondining and Prad, built to protect against the raging Suldenbach stream and – as a nice side effect – as a basis for fruit growing on its right bank. From the original idea of building the road on the Agums mountain slope. From the confusion surrounding the church and its power, which is unimaginable today. From the technical difficulties during construction and the cunning of the Vinschgau farmers.

During the drive, he names every single hairpin bend and points out overgrown misconstructions in the forest. He mentions geological features that made construction almost impossible 200 years ago and contrasts my enthusiasm for the road with the lack of interest shown by South Tyrolean politicians. Arthur expresses his displeasure at renovation work that was done incorrectly, but at least expensively, and explains why the modern repairs will crumble again in no time.

I basically know nothing
about the Stelvio Pass

Looking out over the ice-free mountains of the Ortler Range, he speaks moving and cautionary words about climate change, recounts glacier hikes in the 1960s – an exclusive tourist attraction – and explains the potential dangers posed by the disappearance of permafrost in high mountain regions.

On the road with Arthur Gfrei, THE Stelvio Pass expert

Arthur reports on disasters and unbelievable events, explains political and economic contexts and comes up with ideas for upgrading the road. He shakes dozens of hands at the pass summit and moves around his long-sold hotel as if he were still the manager.

He explains to me in a pleasantly subtle way that I know absolutely NOTHING about the road, its origins, its heyday, its difficult moments, the dramas and miracles that took place on it, and everything else surrounding Italy’s highest pass.

Arthur Gfrei’s expertise takes the most ambitious project I have been involved in to date – the movie “Abseits der Kehren”, produced by Alex – to the next level. And knowing that every meter of the Stelvio Pass road tells a story, I will drive it even more consciously in the future.